Cosmetic composition

ABSTRACT

Cosmetic formulation, especially for use on aging and/or stressed skin, which contains water and substance(s) forming lamellar structures with water, also contains compound(s) (I) with trimethylammonium-methyl group(s) (IA), metabolites of (I) and/or S-adenosylmethionine. Cosmetic formulation, especially for use on aging and/or stressed skin, which contains water and substance(s) forming lamellar structures with water, also contains compound(s) (I) with trimethylammonium-methyl group(s) of formula (IA), metabolites of (I) and/or S-adenosylmethionine:.

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition havingthe characteristics of the preamble of patent claim 1.

[0002] Cosmetic compositions, in particular those cosmetic compositionswhich are used to care for and/or treat skin, and which are preferablyused to care for and/or to treat aged skin and/or stressed skin, usuallyalso have apart from water those substances which can form emulsionswith water. Such an aqueous emulsion, which can be provided with alipophilic additive if required, constitutes the simplest example of acosmetic composition.

[0003] In addition, such a known cosmetic composition may contain stillother cosmetic active ingredients, thickeners, gel forming agents, dyes,stabilizers, age-inhibitors and/or perfumes as well as pH valueregulators.

[0004] It is also known that in the simplest case of a cosmeticcomposition the substance in this present composition can form withwater lamellar structures under specific manufacturing provisions, suchlamellar structures having a layer structure such that each upper layerof the substance is aligned with a lower layer of the substance. Herethis alignment of the individual substance layers occurs depending onthe respectively used solvent, such that the hydrophilic groups of thesubstance each point outwards, while the lipophilic groups are alignedinwards with one another, or that these lipophilic groups each pointoutwards, while the hydrophilic groups of the substance are alignedinwards. The latter is always the case when the medium surrounding thelamellar structure is lipophilic, while the former lamellar structureoccurs whenever the substance is absorbed in a hydrophilic medium.

[0005] If two layers of the substance are oriented in the present sense,then this is referred to as a single membrane, while this lamellarstructure is then referred to as a double membrane when two layer pairsare superposed.

[0006] The object of the present invention is to provide a cosmeticcomposition which has a particularly high cosmetic efficacy.

[0007] This problem is solved according to the present invention by acosmetic composition having the characterizing features of patent claim1.

[0008] The cosmetic composition according to the invention, which isapplied in particular in the case of aged and/or stressed skin, has,apart from water, at least one substance forming lamellar structureswith water. Furthermore, the inventive composition has at least onecompound which has at least one functional group of the general formulaI

—CH₂—N^(⊕)—(CH₃)₃  (formula 1)

[0009] and/or contains at least one metabolite of this compound and/orS-adenosylmethionine.

[0010] In other terms, the cosmetic composition according to theinvention in the simplest case thus comprises, apart from water, atleast one substance forming lamellar structures with water and the aforementioned compound which has the above mentioned functional group of thegeneral formula I, and/or a metabolite of this compound and/orS-adenosylmethionine.

[0011] It was surprisingly found that the composition according to thepresent invention has a high cosmetic efficacy which is expressed on theone hand in a protective function of the skin and on the other hand in ahealing function for aged, sick and/or stressed skin, so that skintreated with the inventive composition is or becomes flexible and smoothand aids already irritated and/or stressed skin to return to itsoriginal natural appearance and condition. Moreover, it was observedthat aged skin returns to its taut and elastic condition, withparticularly undesired wrinkles being smoothed out. After a fewapplications of the inventive cosmetic composition dried skin orroughened skin regained its natural and pliable appearance.

[0012] This positive and exemplary increased cosmetic efficacy of thecosmetic composition according to the invention is attributed to thefact that lamellar structures are present in the composition accordingto the present invention or develop during application of same, wherebythe lamellar structures make their way into the intercellular lipids ofthe cornea where they have the effect of a sealing and healingsubstance, in particular where there is a disrupted barrier function ofthe skin. In addition to this, it is assumed that the lamellarstructures transport S-adenosylmethionine and/or the compound, which hasat least one functional group of the general formula I, and/or themetabolite thereof to the disturbed sites of the skin barrier, wherebythe S-adenosylmethionine and/or the afore mentioned compound and/or itsmetabolite is or are eminently suited, to buffer the electrons occurringin the cell when the energy conversion is disturbed and generated toexcess and/or the electrons generated at the wrong place and/or themissing and/or inadequate oxygen supply, which represent causingelements for all previously listed skin blemishes. These electronsand/or a disrupted oxygen supply and delivery to the cells of the skinare responsible, on account of the knowledge of the present invention,for damaging of the cells and thus also for an undesired skin changeand/or skin damage, and constitute a substantial cause of rapid ageingof skin. It is also understood that the cosmetic composition accordingto the invention effectively and considerably delays ageing of the skinand associated undesired skin changes, so for example skin slackness orthe formation of wrinkles. In particular, the combination of thesubstance forming the lamellar structures with the compound contained inthe composition according to the present invention, which has at leastone functional group of the general formula I, with a metabolite thereofand/or with S-adenosylmethionine ensures that S-adenosylmethionineand/or the compound also actually reaches where the afore mentionedbuffering is to take place. This is attributed to the fact thatS-adenosylmethionine and/or the compound is integrated in the substanceforming the lamellar structures, whereby it is possible for bothintercalation and/or accumulation of the S-adenosylmethionine and/or thecompound and/or of the metabolite on the substance forming the lamellarstructures and integration of the S-adenosylmethionine and/or thecompound and/or of the metabolite into the lamellar structures formed bythe substance in terms of mixed-lamellar structures.

[0013] Furthermore, the S-adenosylmethionine, and/or the compound havingat least one functional group of the general formula I and/or itsmetabolites containing in the inventive composition functions by meansof the at least one methyl group contained therein as electron acceptorand as oxygen substitute and thus traps excess electrons, not requiredfor metabolism of the individual cell, whereby this methyl group or thecorresponding methyl groups is or are converted into harmless methane.

[0014] This effect previously described in the inventive composition isall the more astonishing for the average expert sinceS-adenosylmethionine and also compounds with the functional groupaccording to formula I and also its metabolites are very stable andbreak down outside the organism mass only under extreme thermalconditions. It is assumed here that due to the targeted and localapplication on the respectively damaged cell or cells those reactionconditions are created which enable the previously mentionedenzymatically caused conversion to methane.

[0015] In summary, the cosmetic composition according to the inventioneffectively prevents excess energy-rich electrons and their by-products,that is, oxygen radicals in particular, from forming at all, and/orother radicals attaching undesirably to skin, hair or nails and causingcellular change, damage and/or destruction here. In the biological cycleof skin, hair or nails the composition according to the presentinvention enters a preliminary stage, that is, such a stage whereelectrons and/or radicals acting from externally are present in excessor these electrons or radicals are misdirected, so that they areaccordingly eliminated. Because the cosmetic composition according tothe invention traps the excess energy-rich electrons and/or radicals andthen converts these into non-toxic products and methane, damage to thecells or the skin barrier is prevented particularly effectively withapplication of the inventive composition.

[0016] Basically, the cosmetic composition according to the inventioncontains those substances forming lamellar structures as substance withwater having a hydrophilic and at the same time a hydrophobic moleculargroup. Particularly preferred as this substance are monoglyceride,diglyceride, preferably distilled medium-chain monoglycerides,sphingolipids, phospholipids, fatty alcohols, fatty acids, soaps, mono-and/or di-esters of fatty acids, succrose, glucose and/or theirderivates, glucosidic, furanosidic and/or pyranosidic condensationproducts of fatty alcohols with glucose and/or succrose and theirpolymer derivates, mono- and/or- di-esters of lucosides with fatty acidsderivates, sterols, mono- and/or di-esters of fatty acids and sterolsand/or glycol derivates of sterols as a substance forming lamellarstructures with water, whereby the fatty acids preferably have a C₈-C₂₂saturated linear carbon chain.

[0017] However, it is especially suitable if at least one hydrogenatedphospholipid, and in particular a hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine, iscontained in the cosmetic composition according to the invention assubstance which is in a position to form lamellar structures with water.Here, such hydrogenated phospholipids and in particular hydrogenatedphosphatidylcholine on the one hand forms lamellar structures with waterand on the other hand these lamellar structures are eminently suited toimmigrate into the intercellular lipids of the cornea and at the sametime provide large quantities of the compound contained in the cosmeticcomposition according to the invention, of the metabolite and/or ofS-adenosylmethionine, whereby the especially high efficacy of thispreferred embodiment of the cosmetic composition according to theinvention become clear.

[0018] The afore mentioned advantages are integral to those furtherdevelopments of the composition according to the present invention,which contain as substance a hydrogenated phospholipid which exhibit atleast 60% by weight and preferably between 70% by weight and 95% byweight hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine, whereby these concentrationdata refer to the concentration of the hydrogenated phospholipids in theready-to-use (finished) composition.

[0019] With respect to the concentration of the at least one substance,which can form lamellar structures with water contained in the cosmeticcomposition according to the invention, it is generally held that thisconcentration is directed at the storage and transport capacity of thelamellar structure correspondingly to be formed for the compound, itsmetabolite and/or for the S-adenosylmethionine. In particular, this atleast one substance is present in the cosmetic composition according tothe invention in a concentration between 0.01% by weight and 10% byweight, preferably in a concentration between 2% by weight and 7% byweight, whereby these concentration data refer to the ready-to-usecosmetic composition.

[0020] With respect to the compound and/or the metabolite contained inthe composition according to the present invention it is to be stressedthat preferably the metabolite or the compound, containing at least onefunctional group of the present general formula 1, is the type ofmetabolite or compound which occurs naturally in aerobic cells, inparticular in the cell membranes. It should also be emphasized here thatas a compound the inventive composition should not exhibit thosechemical constituents which are designated in the technology to a largeextent as quaternary ammonium compounds and which constitute syntheticinterface-active substances.

[0021] It is particularly advantageous if the composition according tothe present invention contains as a compound betaine, acetyl choline,N-acetyl-ethanolamine, choline, glycerophosphocholine,phosphatidylcholine, lysophosphatidylcholine, carnitine, acyl carnitine,sphingomyelines alone or in a mixture thereof and/or derivatives and/ormetabolites thereof.

[0022] In connection with the cosmetic composition according to theinvention it has been and will continually be mentioned that this canhave selectively or in addition at least one metabolite of the compoundcontained in the composition according to the present invention with thefunctional group reproduced in formula 1. Preferred metabolites of thiscompound are in particular methyl glycine, dimethyl glycine and methylmethionine, so that accordingly particularly suitable embodiments of theinventive cosmetic composition can then contain as a metabolite methylglycine, dimethyl glycine and/or methyl methionine. Depending on therespective application the concentration of the compound aligns with thefunctional group reproduced in formula 1 and/or its metabolites and/orthe concentration of S-adenosylmethionine contained in the inventivecomposition, varies. It is particularly preferred if the compound and/orits metabolites and/or S-adenosylmethionine is present in aconcentration between 0.0001% and 10%, preferably between 0.1% and 9%,relative to the weight of the ready-to-use composition.

[0023] An embodiment of the cosmetic composition according to theinvention having a particularly high cosmetic efficacy provides that thecomposition contains a mixture comprising betaine, methyl glycine,N-acetyl ethanolamine and/or inositol as constituents. Thisconfiguration can have selectively either all four afore mentionedpreferred constituents or only three or two constituents of the aforementioned type, thus in particular the combination of betaine and methylglycine, the combination of N-acetyl ethanolamine and methyl glycine,the combination of inositol and methyl glycine, the combination ofbetaine and N-acetyl ethanolamine as well as the combination of betainewith N-acetyl ethanolamine and the combination of betaine with N-acetylethanolamine and methyl glycine.

[0024] If the previously described embodiment of the cosmeticcomposition according to the invention contains a mixture of two of theafore mentioned special constituents, the mol-mass ratio of these twoconstituents (betaine, methyl glycine, N-acetyl-ethanolamine, inositol)varies in particular between 1:1 to 1:9.

[0025] A particularly suitable and advantageous further embodiment ofthe cosmetic composition according to the invention provides that theinventive cosmetic composition has, apart from water, the substanceforming lamellar structures, the compound and/or the metabolite and/orS-adenosylmethionine, also at least one cosmetic active ingredient,whereby in particular such a cosmetic active ingredient is contained inthe inventive composition, which maintains skin, hair and/or nails ingood and healthy conditions.

[0026] Included as a cosmetic active ingredient in particular are thoseactive ingredients which effect cleaning and care of the skin andmaintenance of a healthy skin condition, external protection of the skinfrom damaging environmental influences, climatic and actiniticinfluences, thus in particular with excessive solar and UV radiation,protection of skin from laundry and cleansing agents as well as otherenvironmental stress, thus in particular dust and emissions. Belongingto these in particular are unsaturated fats having a pliable effect,liquid fatty acid esters and hydrocarbons with short-chain branchingwhich have a spreading effect, covering and protective fats, inparticular comprising oils, liquid fatty alcohols, silicon oils, solidfatty acid esters and/or fatty alcohols, whereby preferably an oiland/or an oil constituent, in particular also the unsaponifiableportions of a plant oil, such as preferably avocado oil, olive oiland/or at least one native oil is contained as a cosmetic activeingredient in the cosmetic composition according to the invention. Inaddition, vitamins, oligoproteins, collagen-hydrolysates and known anduseful UV filter substances are also to be mentioned as cosmetic activeingredients.

[0027] If the inventive composition is used in the area of cosmetictreatment of hair and nails, these embodiments of the cosmeticcomposition according to the invention preferably contain, apart fromthickeners and binders, in particular based on natural polymers, alsoback-greasing substances such as Vaseline, paraffin oils, cetylalcohols, polysiloxanes and/or lanoline.

[0028] In particular, the concentration of the afore mentionedmaintaining and caring active ingredients contained in the compositionaccording to the present invention are between 1% and 55% and inparticular between 5% and 30%, relative to the weight of theready-to-use cosmetic composition.

[0029] In another embodiment of the cosmetic composition according tothe invention this has in addition to the afore mentioned maintainingactive ingredients or instead of the afore mentioned maintaining activeingredients in particular at least one further active ingredient,whereby this is preferably such an active ingredient which increases themoisture of the skin when applied topically. Preferred examples of suchan active ingredient increasing the skin moisture are generallyN-acyl-alkanolamines, preferably lactamide MEA, oleamide MEA and/oracetamide MEA, and in particular N-acyl-ethanolamines, so in particularN-acetyl-phosphatidylethanolamine, N-acetyl-ethanolamine alreadymentioned several times hereinabove, N-oleoyl-ethanolamine,N-linolenoyl-ethanolamine as well as N-acyl-ethanolamine and/orN-acyl-2-hydroxy-propylamine, whereby the latter two ingredients containfatty acids of cocoa fat and/or palm oil as acyl residues.

[0030] The concentration of these active ingredients in the compositionaccording to the present invention increasing skin moisture variespreferably between 0.5% and 20%, relative to the weight of theready-to-use (finished) cosmetic composition.

[0031] In a particularly advantageous further development of the abovementioned embodiments of the composition according to the presentinvention this development has as compound a fatty acid, a fatty acidsalt and/or a mixture of betaine with at least one fatty acid and/or amixture of betaine with at least one fatty acid salt.

[0032] Preferably such a salt is selected here as a fatty acid salt, inwhich the fundamental fatty acid is a linear fatty acid and has between12 to 22 carbon atoms, while a fatty acid preferably likewise containsbetween 12 and 22 carbon atoms.

[0033] Particularly suitable fatty acid salts of betaine are betainelaurate, betaine myristate, betaine palmitate, betaine stearate, betaineoleate and betaine linolate, alone or in a mixture. It could beestablished surprisingly here that despite their relatively poor watersolubility these afore mentioned fatty acid salts of betaine impart aparticularly high cosmetic efficacy to the composition according to thepresent invention.

[0034] As already detailed before, the cosmetic composition according tothe invention contains water, whereby the concentration of the water inthe composition according to the present invention varies in particularbetween 5% and 90%, relative to the weight of the ready-to-use cosmeticcomposition.

[0035] The term water used in the present application covers all aqueoussystems, in particular sterilized water, deionised water, distilledwater and aqueous solutions and/or aqueous buffer systems.

[0036] Further, depending on the type of each selected formulation, thecosmetic composition according to the invention can contain at least onepreservative, antioxidant, thickener, gel-forming agent and/or alcohol,preferably a multivalent alcohol.

[0037] A particularly preferred and multi-applicable formulation of thecomposition according to the present invention contains between

[0038] 5% and 90% water,

[0039] 0.01% and 10% substance forming lamellar structures,

[0040] 0.0001% to 10% of the compound and/or its metabolites and/or ofS-adenosylmethionine,

[0041] 0.5% to 20% of active ingredient increasing skin moisture,

[0042] 1% to 55% of at least one maintaining active ingredient as wellas the usual other constituents in a concentration between 0% and 10%,whereby the previously used term other constituents cover, in particularpreservative, an antioxidant, a thickener, a gel-forming agent and/or analcohol, preferably a multivalent alcohol. The above mentionedconcentration data refer respectively to the weight of the ready-to-usecomposition.

[0043] The cosmetic composition according to the invention can basicallybe made. up in each formulation suitable for topical application,whereby the cosmetic composition according to the invention isespecially formulated as a topically applicable cream. This topicallyapplicable cream has a viscosity at 20° C. between 4000 Pas and 40000mPas, preferably between 12000 mPas and 25000 mpas, so that a cream thusformulated can be distributed easily and particularly smoothly over theskin.

[0044] To ensure the cosmetic efficacy of the inventive composition inparticular for sensitive skin also or for sensitive hair or sensitivenails, the composition according to the present invention preferably hasa pH value which varies between 4.0 and 7.2.

[0045] As already detailed initially with the composition according tothe present invention, as cause for the improved cosmetic efficacy ofthe composition according to the present invention it is assumed thatthe inventive composition contains at least one of such a substancewhich forms lamellar structures. In particular, whenever the compositionhas between 15% by weight and 95% by weight, preferably between 30% byweight and 95% by weight, of such lamellar structures, whereby the aforementioned. concentrations refer to the weight of the substance containedin the composition according to the present invention, which is in aposition to form lamellar structures, such a configuration has aparticularly high cosmetic efficacy, because due to the highconcentration of lamellar structures the integrated compound, containingat least one functional group of the general formula 1, and/or ametabolite hereof and/or integrated S-adenosylmethionine are transportedin particularly high concentrations and particularly rapidly into theintercellular lipids. of the cornea, such that the reactions describedinitially in the composition according to the present invention can takeplace particularly quickly.

[0046] Preferably the composition according to the present inventionexhibits such lamellar structures having a thickness varying between 20nm and 3 μm, in particular between 40 nm and 1 μm.

[0047] Inositol, as referred to hereinabove and hereinbelow, is to bedesignated correctly in chemical terms as inosite(cyclohexane-1,2,3,4,5,6-hexaole).

[0048] In particular, a salt of methyl methionine and preferablyS-methyl-DL-methionine-sulfonium chloride is used as methyl methioninein the composition according to the present invention and in theexamples described hereinbelow.

[0049] Advantageous further developments of the composition according tothe present invention are set out in the sub-claims.

[0050] The composition according to the present invention is explainedin greater detail with reference to nine examples.

EXAMPLE 1

[0051] Examples 1 describes a cream for extremely stressed aged skin.

[0052] A cosmetic composition is prepared from the following list ofcontents: Phase 1 hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine, concentration of 2.0g hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine 90% by weight monoglyceride C 12 1.5g olive oil 17.0 g cholesterol 2.0 g ceramide 3 0.1 g avocadine 1.0 gsqualene 1.0 g pentylene glycol 5.0 g palmitic acid 1.0 g Phase 2acetamide MEA 0.5 g betaine, water-free 0.8 g carnitine 0.5 g water DAB10 ad 100.0 g

[0053] Phase 1 and Phase 2 were first heated to 75° C. for production.Then Phase 2 was slowly added to Phase 1 while the temperature wasmaintained and the mixture was continuously stirred. After a completemixture was prepared it was then homogenized for two minutes at 15000rpm using a homogenizer (Ultra Turrax).

[0054] This homogenizing was followed by forced homogenizing by means ofhigh-pressure homogenisation lasting five minutes at 790 bar. Themixture was then cooled to 37° C. with continuous stirring. The mixturewas then homogenized again for three minutes using an Ultra Turraxhomogenizer at 8000 rpm. After this the mixture was cooled down to roomtemperature with continuous stirring.

EXAMPLE 2

[0055] Example 2 describes a body lotion for skin which tends to barrierdisruptions, whereby the body lotion was prepared from the followingconstituents: Phase 1 hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine, concentration of1.5 g hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine 90% by weight monoglyceride C 101.2 g olive oil 18.0 g cholesterol 1.0 g ceramide 3 0.1 g squalene 1.0 gbenzyl alcohol 1.0 g palmitic acid 1.0 g Phase 2 lactamide MEA 0.5 gbetaine, water-free 1.0 g choline, water-free 0.2 g water DAB 10 ad100.0 g

[0056] Phase 1 and Phase 2 were first heated to 75° C. for production.Then Phase 2 was slowly added to Phase 1 while the temperature wasmaintained and the mixture was continuously stirred. After a completemixture was prepared it was then homogenized for two minutes at 10000rpm using a homogenizer (Ultra Turrax).

[0057] This homogenizing was followed by forced homogenizing by means ofhigh-pressure homogenisation lasting five minutes at 600 bar. Themixture was then cooled to 37° C. with continuous stirring. The mixturewas then homogenized again for three minutes using an Ultra Turraxhomogenizer at 8000 rpm. After this the mixture was cooled down to roomtemperature with continuous stirring.

EXAMPLE 3

[0058] A body spray for extremely stressed skin was prepared using thefollowing constituents: Phase 1 hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine,concentration of 2.0 g hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine 90% by weightmonoglyceride C 16 1.8 g olive oil 17.0 g cholesterol 2.0 g ceramide 30.1 g avocadine 1.0 g squalene 1.0 g pentylene glycol 5.0 g betainepalmitate 1.8 g Phase 2 acetamide MEA 0.5 g water DAB 10 ad 100.0 g

[0059] Phase 1 and Phase 2 were first heated to 75° C. for production.Then Phase 2 was slowly added to Phase 1 while the temperature wasmaintained and the mixture was continuously stirred. After a completemixture was prepared it was then homogenized for two minutes at 15000rpm using a homogenizer (Ultra Turrax).

[0060] This homogenizing was followed by forced homogenizing by means ofhigh-pressure homogenisation lasting five minutes at 790 bar. Themixture was then cooled to 37° C. with continuous stirring. The mixturewas then homogenized again for three minutes using an Ultra Turraxhomogenizer at 8000 rpm. After this the mixture was cooled down to roomtemperature with continuous stirring.

EXAMPLE 4

[0061] Example 4 describes a cream for skin tending to barrierdisruptions.

[0062] A cosmetic composition was prepared from the following list ofconstituents: Phase 1 hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine, concentration of2.0 g hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine 90% by weight distilledmonoglyceride C 10 1.7 g olive oil 20.0 g pentylene glycol 5.0 gpalmitic acid 2.2 g Phase 2 palmitamide MEA 0.5 g betaine, water-free0.8 g choline 0.2 g water DAB 10 ad 100.0 g

[0063] Phase 1 and Phase 2 were first heated to 75° C. for production.Then Phase 2 was slowly added to Phase 1 while the temperature wasmaintained and the mixture was continuously stirred. After a completemixture was prepared it was then homogenized for two minutes at 15000rpm using a homogenizer (Ultra Turrax).

[0064] This homogenizing was followed by forced homogenizing by means ofhigh-pressure homogenisation lasting five minutes at 790 bar. Themixture was then cooled to 37° C. with continuous stirring. The mixturewas then homogenized again for three minutes using an Ultra Turraxhomogenizer at 8000 rpm. After this the mixture was cooled down to roomtemperature with continuous stirring.

EXAMPLES 5 TO 9

[0065] The following examples 5 to 9 describe a cream for use both withstressed skin and irritated skin, in particular for aged skin.

[0066] A cosmetic composition was prepared from the following list ofconstituent, whereby all examples 5 to 9 have identical Phases 1 and 2,but a different Phase 3.

[0067] Phase 1 had the following contents identical throughout examples5 to 9: Phase 1 hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine, concentration of1.95%  hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine 90% by weight olive oil (C 16:0,C 18:1) 19.2%  C 18:1 triglyceride 3.9% C 16:0 triglyceride 3.9%squalene 1.9% Phase 2 sodium carbomer 0.24%  xanthan gum 0.1% pentyleneglycol 5.0% glycerine 5.9% hydroxy ethyl cellulose 0.2% water ad 100.0%

[0068] The above mentioned and the following percentages all refer to %by weight.

[0069] Example 5 contained a Phase 3 having the following contents:Phase 3 acetamide MEA 0.5% betaine 0.3%

[0070] Example 6 contained a Phase 3 having the following contents:Phase 3 acetamide MEA 0.5% methyl glycine (sarcosine) 0.2%

[0071] Example 7 contained a Phase 3 having the following contents:Phase 3 acetamide MEA 0.5% betaine 0.3% methyl glycine (sarcosine) 0.2%

[0072] Example 8 contained a Phase 3 having the following contents:Phase 3 betaine 0.3% methyl glycine (sarcosine) 0.2%

[0073] Example 9 contained a Phase. 3 having the following contents:Phase 3 betaine 0.5% methyl methionine 0.2% methyl glycine (sarcosine)0.2%

[0074] The above mentioned percentages of contents given for Phase 3 ofexamples 5 to 9 refer to the ready-to-use cosmetic composition.

[0075] Phase 1 and Phase 2 were first heated separately to 75° C. toproduce the compositions described in examples 5 to 9. Then Phase 2 wasslowly added to Phase 1 while the temperature was maintained and themixture was continuously stirred. After a complete mixture was preparedit was then homogenized for two minutes at 16000 rpm using a homogenizer(Ultra Turrax).

[0076] The mixture prepared from Phases 1 and 2 was then cooled to 37°C. with continuous stirring. Then Phase 3 was slowly added to themixture of Phases 1 and 2 while the temperature was maintained and themixture was continuously stirred.

[0077] The mixture was then homogenized again for five minutes using anUltra Turrax homogenizer at 5000 rpm. After this the mixture was cooleddown to room temperature with continuous stirring to form the respectivecomposition.

[0078] The terminology used in the examples corresponds insofar as itdoes not relate to unambiguous chemical terms as used in “InternationalCosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook”, 7^(th) edition, publishedby “The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association, Washington D.C.”(CTFA).

1. A cosmetic composition, especially for use on aged and/or stressedskin, whereby apart from water at least one substance forming lamellarstructures with water is present in the composition, characterized inthat the composition further contains a) at least one compound which hasat least one functional group of the general formula I—CH₂—N^(⊕)—(CH₃)₃  (formula I) b) and/or at least one metabolite of thiscompound, c) and/or S-adenosylmethionine.
 2. The cosmetic compositionaccording to claim 1, characterized in that the composition containsmonoglyceride, diglyceride, preferably distilled medium-chainmonoglyceride, sphingolipids, phospholipids, fatty alcohols, fattyacids, soaps, mono- and/or di-esters of fatty acids, succrose, glucoseand/or their derivates, glucosidic, furanosidic and/or pyranosidiccondensation products of fatty alcohols with glucose and/or succrose andtheir polymer derivates, mono- and/or di-esters of glucosides with fattyacids derivates, sterols, mono- and/or di-esters of fatty acids andsterols and/or glycol derivates of sterols as a substance forminglamellar structures with water.
 3. The cosmetic composition according toclaim 1 or 2, characterized in that the composition contains ahydrogenated phospholipid, in particular a hydrogenatedphosphatidylcholine as a substance forming lamellar structures withwater.
 4. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterizedin that the hydrogenated phospholipid has at least 60% by weight ofhydrogenated phosphatidylcholine.
 5. The cosmetic composition accordingto one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition asthe substance forming lamellar structures with water in a concentrationbetween 0.01% by weight and 10% by weight, preferably in a concentrationbetween 2% by weight and 7% by weight, relative to the ready-to-usecomposition.
 6. The cosmetic composition according to one of thepreceding claims, characterized in that the compound or its metabolitesare a natural compound or a metabolite present in aerobic cells.
 7. Thecosmetic composition according to one of the preceding claims,characterized in that the compound is betaine, acetyl-choline,N-acetyl-ethanolamine, choline, glyceroph sphocholine,phosphatidylcholine, lysophosphatidylcholine, carnitine, acylcarnitine,sphingomyeline, mixtures and/or derivates and/or metabolites thereof. 8.The cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding claims,characterized in that the metabolite is methyl glycine, dimethylglycineand/or methyl methionine.
 9. The cosmetic composition according to oneof the preceding claims, characterized in that the compound and/or theme abolite and/or S-adenosylmethionine is present in the composition ina concentration between 0.0001% and 10 and preferably between 0.1% and9%, relative to the weight of the ready-to-use composition.
 10. Thecosmetic composition according to one of the preceding claims,characterized in that the composition contains a mixture includingbetaine, methyl glycine, N-acetyl-ethanolamine and/or inositol ascontents.
 11. The cosmetic composition according to claim 10,characterized in that the mol masses in the mixture having two compoundsvary from 1:1 to 1:9.
 12. The cosmetic composition according to one ofthe preceding claims, characterized in that the cosmetic compositionalso contains at least one cosmetic active ingredient.
 13. The cosmeticcomposition according to claim 12, characterized in that the activeingredient is an active ingredient maintaining the skin, hair and/ornails in good and healthy conditions.
 14. The cosmetic compositionaccording to claim 12 or 13, characterized in that the active ingredientis an oil and/or oil constituent, in particular the unsaponifiableportions of the avocado oil, olive oil and/or at least one native oil.15. The cosmetic composition according to claims 12 to 14, characterizedin that the maintaining active ingredient is present in a concentrationbetween 1% and 55%, relate to the weight of the ready-to-use cosmeticcomposition.
 16. The cosmetic composition according to claims 12 to 15,characterized in that the active ingredient is an active ingredientmaintaining skin moisture.
 17. The cosmetic composition according toclaim 16, characterized in that the active ingredient is an amide, inparticular an alkanolamide and more preferably lactamide MEA, oleamideMEA and/or an acetamide MEA.
 18. The cosmetic composition according toclaim 16 or 17, characterized in that the active ingredient increasingthe skin moisture is present in the composition in a concentrationbetween 0.5% and 20 %, relative to the weight of the ready-to-usecosmetic composition.
 19. The cosmetic composition according to one ofthe preceding claims, characterized in that the cosmetic compositioncontains a fatty acid, a fatty acid salt and/or a mixture of betainewith at least one fatty acid and/or a fatty acid salt as compound. 20.The cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding claims,characterized in that the cosmetic composition has at least one fattyacid salt of betaine.
 21. The cosmetic composition according to claim 19or 20, characterized in that the fatty acid or the fatty acid salt has amain carbon chain with 12 to 22 carbon atoms.
 22. The cosmeticcomposition according to claim 20 or 21, characterized in that betainelaurate, betaine myristate betaine palmitate, betaine stearate, betaineoleate and/or betaine linolate is present in the cosmetic composition asa fatty acid salt of betaine.
 23. The cosmetic composition according toone of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition haswater in a concentration between 5% and 90%, relative to the weight ofthe ready-to-use cosmetic composition.
 24. The cosmetic compositionaccording to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that thecomposition also has at least one preservative, an antioxidant, athickener, a gel-forming agent and/or an alcohol, preferably amultivalent alcohol.
 25. The cosmetic composition according to one ofthe preceding claims, characterized in that the cosmetic compositioncontains between 5% and 90% water, 0.01% and 10% of a substance forminglamellar structures, 0.0001% to 10% of a compound and/or metaboliteand/or S-adenosylmethionine, 0.5% to 20 % of an active ingredientincreasing skin moisture, 1% to 55% of at least one maintaining activeingredient as well as the usual other constituents in a concentrationbetween 0% and 10%, whereby the above mentioned concentrations arerelated to the weight of the ready-to-use composition.
 26. The cosmeticcomposition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized inthat the composition is formulated as a topically applied cream and hasa viscosity at 20° C. between 4000 mPas and 40000 mpas, preferablybetween 12000 mPas and 25000 mpas.
 27. The cosmetic compositionaccording to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that thecomposition has a pH value between 4.0 and 7.2.
 28. The cosmeticcomposition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized inthat the composition has lamellar structures, whereby the concentrion ofthis lamellar structure is between 15% and 5%, preferably between 30%and 95%, relative to the weight of the substance contained in thecomposition and forming the lamellar structures.
 29. The cosmeticcomposition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized inthat the composition has such lamellar structures whose thickness variesbetween 20 nm and 3 μm, preferably between 40 nm and 1 μm.